Hi

A couple of days ago the hotend wouldn’t heat up and i got a couple of errorcodes/warnings in the display. The bed heats up just fine, so i ordered a new hotend parts (heater, thermistor and a new aluminum block). Changed all of this, but still the same error. I can se that the thermistor works because it changes values in the display when touching the thermistor-end. Any good ideas why the heater doesn’t heat?

  • UncleStewart@sh.itjust.worksOPEnglish
    1·
    4 months ago

    1. Power from PDU = OK
    2. Power to bed heater = OK
    3. Looks like power to the nozzle heater = same results as when checking volts directly on the hotend.
    4. Empty

    #3 goes up to a board back on the printer. This board has multiple outlets, and one USB-C that goes up to the hotend.

        • papalonian@lemmy.worldEnglish
          2·
          4 months ago

          So that little board is simply connecting all the cables from the main board into one cable (the USB C cable). If you’re getting nothing from the main board, either the board itself or the mosfet for the heater is dying.

          Honestly, I don’t know how you’d go about testing board vs mosfet, if it were me I’d just replace the board, but somebody else might be able to tell you if there’s a better route to take

          • UncleStewart@sh.itjust.worksOPEnglish
            1·
            4 months ago

            Yes, that little board connects many of the cables from the main board to one USB-C, the the black and the white connectors. The USB-C is the only one going to the hotend.
            Anways, thank you, kind internet stranger, for trying to help me out with this. Looks like I’m gonna have to replace the mainboard.

            • papalonian@lemmy.worldEnglish
              2·
              3 months ago

              Our hobby survives on the backbone of kind internet strangers, to deny your call is to deny yourself.

              I don’t know your printer’s configuration, but assuming a pretty standard setup (single extruder, single X and Y steppers, single or dual z) I can recommend the SKR MINI 3.0. It’s a gem to handle, documentation and firmware are readily available on their GitHub, and best of all, they’re cheap and easy to source (assuming you’re in the US).

              While you’re looking in to changing your main board, may I suggest you take a peek at Klipper? It’s phenomenally worth the effort it takes to set up, and you’re already going to be doing a big amount of the same legwork if you’re getting a different main board than stock.

              • UncleStewart@sh.itjust.worksOPEnglish
                1·
                3 months ago

                Yeah, it’s a pretty standard setup. The previous owner put a BLTouch on the printer but never got it to work. I’ve had the printer for about 2 weeks and was about to figure this ABL out, but it misses the ABL option in the menu.
                I’m pretty new in the 3D print business and know nothing about flashing, compiling, and all the options you can do. You recommend the SKR MINI 3.0, and i didn’t know i could change the mobo to other than the original SKR V1.4. What are the benefits of changing to the SKR MINI? And, no, I’m not in the US. But I’ll find it here in Norway…
                And Klipper? Not heard of that either, but a fast youtube peek tells me that this too might be interesting…

                • papalonian@lemmy.worldEnglish
                  1·
                  3 months ago

                  and i didn’t know i could change the mobo to other than the original

                  That’s what’s great about (most) printers, you can do whatever you want with them 😁

                  about to figure this ABL out, but it misses the ABL option in the menu.

                  That’s because you’re using the stock firmware, which was not compiled with the bltouch in mind. If you want to get that working, you’d have to flash a different firmware, at which point I’d highly recommend Klipper, maybe I’m just bad at using Marlin (the other popular 3d printing firmware) but compiling firmware for it was a million times more difficult than getting klipper working